Salt Water Fly Fishing Equipment Basics
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Over the last decade or so, salt water fly fishing has gained a tremendous following. Early on, the majority of new salty longrodders were cold water converts - fresh water fly fishers who took up heavier tackle and waded into the brine. However, in recent years many long-time plug fishermen have either entered the fly fishing world or given it serious consideration.

For fishermen on the verge of taking the plunge, there are a couple of perceived obstacles that may temper their enthusiasm. Each of these perceptions can hinder or outright dismantle a novice's ability to purchase the proper equipment and, ultimately, become a fly fisherman.

The first of these aspects is the technical aspect of fly fishing. On the surface, the fly fishing world seems a maze of language and knots. A closer look reveals these intricacies to be no more complex than the nuances of plug or spinning gear - it's just phrased differently.

Rod and line weight, for example, can easily relate to light, medium, medium heavy or heavy conventional gear. Someone just entering salt water fly fishing is generally best served with an 8-weight rod, which would be the equivalent of a medium spinning or casting rod. Sightcasters wanting to use light tackle on the flats may opt for a 6-weight, whereas a caster needing medium heavy may choose a 9- or 10-weight wand.

The main thing to do is keep it simple. Find the most versatile weight for the type of fishing usually done. Again, most often an 8-weight is an ideal starter rod. And, for practical purposes, a salt water fly fisher can just ignore any information about rods lower than a 6-weight.

Pairing a line weight to the rod keeps with the simplicity concept, although some will tell beginners to put one line weight heavier on. This works fine early on as a training tool, but most casters quickly outgrow the need for training wheels and end up buying an exact match to maximize performance.

Southern fly fishers can hardly go wrong with a floating line, but an intermediate certainly has its uses. But, again, getting started should be easy and the floater will offer the maximum versatility.

Reel selection should not be complicated, either. Manufacturers offer a wide variety of arbor sizes, drag configurations, etc. Spring and pawl, single-action, `clicker' reels are fine for fresh water and actually perform adequately for redfish and speckled trout. However, there is no advantage to this type of reel other than price and they will not grow with the fisherman as speedier gamefish put equipment to the test .

Instead, anglers should find a smooth, corrosion resistant disc drag reel capable of holding 150 yards of backing and a full line. This reel may cost a few more bucks, but it will offer a lifetime of loyal service.

Price is another major hindrance. While it is true that early times saw fly fishers forking over major bucks, that is not necessary today. There are still plenty of $500 and $600 rods on the market. However, most major labels, including Orvis, Sage, G. Loomis, Temple Fork, Redington, and others offer equipment with a beginner's price tag attached.

Like anything new, fly fishing has a learning curve. However, ask plenty of questions, learn information that is pertinent to your pursuits and forget the rest. Fishing is supposed to be fun. Fly fishing is no different. It can be intimidating at first, but once the basics are learned it is one of the most rewarding flats experiences available.


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